Salmiakpastiller

Strong candy, beautiful Finnish packaging

If you hadnt guessed from my Piparkakut recipe, I enjoy Finnish food, culture, and people. I had a chance to visit in 2003 traveling from Helsinki to Mantyharju to Rovaniemi to Pyha in Lapland and back. A beautiful trip filled with lakes, trains, reindeer, hiking, coffee, beer, and lots of great food. My travel companion and I stayed with Jaakko Matilla who led us berry picking in the countryside. Afterwards I pulled together a blueberry pie with the small blue berries (like the Maine variety) that no one has ever forgotten. The rest of the trip was filled with herring (creamed, pickled, fried, and stuffed in bread) and lots of liquorice treats.

Lapin Kulta, a not so fancy beer I enjoyed in Finland, 2003

Jaakko is visiting NYC this week, and Ive been treated to an impressive ring of ruis rye bread from Nordic Breads NYC. Im told is better than the kind in Finland. Jaakko also brought a bag of Salmiakki, or should I say Super Salmiakki candies. Salmiakki contains ammonium chloride (salmiac) which gives the already aggressive flavor of black liquorice a salty flavor. The candies are beyond chewy. The texture is more like a hard gummy candy that clings to your teeth and tongue with a vengeance. The flavor is only slightly sweet, nearly savory, liquorice with a bite of table salt taste and an unexpected menthol minty flavor. Im eating them in small quantities. The flavor lingers on for an hour or more, jammed in my molars.

Reindeer in Lapland.

I havent traveled abroad in a few years now. Jaakko has made it clear that NYC and Americas new foodie tendencies toward organic foods, CSAs and sustainably produced foods would be welcome in Finland. Ive been elected to help. I cant make promises but its a thought to grow on. Finland must be doing okay. Jaakko tells me that you can split a whole or half reindeer meat share.

Tomato Soup

Really this red and really better than can soup from a can

I was sick earlier this month eating bread and soup for 7-10 days. Campbells Tomato soup became dinner on more than one occasion. The soup has a nostalgic but salty sodium and tinny flavor. I discovered this weekend that it doesnt take much to make a soup that blows Campbells lingering memory out of the way in 30-45 minutes. I also discovered the line between tomato soup, tomato sauce and bbq sauce can be a tricky one to walk. I used canned tomatoes, with summer a distant memory. You could easily roast fresh tomatoes if your climate or season allows.

Tomato Soup

1 red pepper

1 large onion, chopped

2 tblsp vegetable oil

36-38 oz canned crushed tomatoes (one big and one normal sized cans)

12 oz vegetable or chicken broth

1 tablespoon soy sauce

1/4 tsp cayenne

1/4 tsp sriracha

1/2 tsp smoky Hungarian paprika

1 tsp sugar

4 drops liquid smoke (optional)

2 tblsp olive oil

salt and pepper to taste

Core and de-seed red pepper. Wrap in foil and roast in 350 degree oven for 15-20 minutes until cooked. Remove from oven, and let rest for 10 minutes. Remove skin, and chop. Meanwhile saute onion in oil until translucent in a large stock pot. Add roasted pepper, canned tomatoes, broth, spices, and sugar. Bring to a boil and remove from heat. Puree in batches in a food processor or blender until smooth. Return pureed soup to pot and liquid smoke, olive oil, and salt and pepper to taste. Stir, and its done. Serve with grilled cheese, bread, or whatever comforts.

Venison Chili

meal

January to February is chili season, directly following Christmas cookie season. Easy, fast, spicy, warming, and and easy way to feel like youve eaten a round meal with just one bowl.

Dangerously close to a year ago I was given venison loin by my cousin Mary-Tyler. The venison was hunted by her half of the family, likely in Virgina. Mary-Tyler will correct me in the comments if Im wrong. I wasnt sure if the venison would be freezer burned (from a year in the freezer) or if the meat would be too strong. The venison was neither, and I ate a hunk hot off the stove. It was a little bit of a waste to cover up great meat in chili, but this is some outstanding chili. One thing to note, I defrosted the venison on a shallow plate in the fridge. The plate was brimming with blood when it thawed, and got everywhere. Gross. Watch out.

Venison Chili

1 lb venison
1/4 cup red wine vinegar
2 tblsp canola oil
1/4 tsp salt
1 onion, chopped
8 cloves garlic, chopped
1/2 tsp fresh ground pepper
1/8 tsp cayenne pepper (or more)
1 tblsp ground cumin (I fresh roast and grind cumin seeds for much better flavor)
1 tsp ground coriander (roasted and ground seeds preferred)
2 tsp chili powder (ditto with above)
28 oz can crushed tomatoes
1 can black beans
1 can kidney beans
2 cans water

Put venison a stock pot with 1/4 cup vinegar and water to cover 1 inch. Let sit for 3-5 hours. Soaking in vinegar is supposed to tenderize the meat and remove gamy flavor. Im not too sure if you should soak the meat longer or shorter period of time. I couldnt find specific directions online. Please leave your thoughts in the comments if you know better. When ready to make chili remove venison from the water, and wring out. Pat with many, many paper towels to dry.

Add oil to a stockpot and heat over high fire until oil is smoking. Salt the venison and carefully add to the stock pot. Cook until browned, turning to brown each side. Remove and let sit 5-10 minutes. Dont worry if the venison is raw on the inside, you arent done cooking it.

Add onions and salt to the pot and saute over medium heat until transparent. Add chopped garlic and spices. Continue to cook for 2 minutes. Toss in the crushed tomatoes and beans with fluids. Fill each bean can with water and add to the pot. Stir. Cut the browned venison into 3/4 inch chunks and return to the pot with any drippings. Stir again. Taste and adjust seasonings as needed. Simmer for 30 minutes and serve. Tastes great with beer and cornbread. Makes about 8 cups of chili.

The Cheese Speaks

Non-conventional cheese label

"When at first you dont think that it will matter, remember life is not a bunch of stairs its a very high ladder." said the Italian Fontal.

I stopped buying cheese a while ago buy to my lac-tardy-ness. Super bowl approaches and it seems impossible to plan a menu without cheese. Went to my favorite cheese spot, the West Side Market and discovered more then just cheeses. Someone, or maybe "The Doctor" has entered clever but cryptic messages onto the cheese labels. There was more, some advice with the an heir of fortune cookie sobriety, and some thoughts on cheese.

Does anyone recognize the passage above? I am guessing its original, since Google didnt have any coherent search results for it. Who is this doctor? Is he only at this location?